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Wine

Wine

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Wine
Occasion: Dinner with exceptional friends and conversations

Food:Red Wine Braised Short Ribs

Music: Louis Prima - Oh Marie - Oh Marie

From the land of the mofia, spleen sandwiches and incredibly amazing fresh tuna hails Caruso & Minini's Nero d'Avola, Sicily's most famous indigenous varietal. What's fascinating about Sicilian wine is that there is an old-school, rustic vibe to them, yet an obvious modernity exist as well. I find them super interesting, while being fun and vibrant at the same time. Perplexing to say the least. The Hero d'Avola-based example has plump red and blue fruit, fresh rose petals and white chocolate on the nose and the front of the palate as if it is a classic Argentinian Malbec. Then, subtle pomegranate, orange zest and dried spice notes fill out the mid-palate and clean up and balance out hte wine, finishing with a medium+ bodied wine with checked alcohol and noted acidity. It's generous and delicious yet tempered and balanced. It's the best of both worlds! IT's as if Argentina's Malbec and Tuscany's Sangiovese had a love child.
 
Caruso & Minini, Nero D'Avola, Terre di Giumara, Sicily, 2009
$46.99
 
'The Varietal formerly known as Prince'

To give yourself a single name is one thing. Look at me for example, Gordon Matthew Sumner*. Now I have opted for the glorious one word name of Ballstein, joining me with the likes of Prince, Bono and Madonna...sans the fame or the Grammies or the money...yet? My falsetto is dazzling. It’s another thing when you are renamed against your will because the EU says you are a homonym of another more famous wine located in Hungary of all places, but we have all been there. So no more Tocai Friulano...just plain old Friulano. At least it’s less cumbersome to pronounce and easier to remember its origin, the idyllic land of Friuli.

Now to the juice: Friulano is a sibling/mutation of Sauvignon Blanc though they tend to be quite different in character. Friulanos are slightly less aromatic but with richer, more ripe fruit and weightier on the palate. The Borgo is a top-class example with fruit in the form of white apricot, Asian pear and green apple layered with beautiful secondary components of honeysuckle, marzipan, fresh mint and lemon Pledge (I grew up with that smell and love it to this day! Plus, the commercials are the BEST!). The heightened acidity integrates the density of the slightly viscous mid-palate followed by a long, gravelly (it is from Grave) finish. I recently tasted this wine against a highly regarded Friulano at twice the price and the Borgo was more complex. This is one of the great values of the wine world.

*Might have been Sting
 
Borgo ‘M’, Fruilano, Grave del Friuli, Italy, 2010
$45.99
 
'Dry Riesling = Deliciousness'

The Summer of Riesling’ is now in full throttle with nearly 500 restaurants & wine bars participating by pouring at least three Rieslings by the glass. The purpose is to show off the versatility of this varietal with styles ranging from sparkling to dry to super sweet and everything in between. It is the single most dynamic white varietal...the Jack Nicholson of the wine world.

I have always loved Riesling, especially in the right context. In general, I tend to lean towards drier style of wines but with spicy food, the pairing of a sweeter style Riesling can be epic. Today’s offering of the Brooks Riesling is that dry style that I tend to lean towards as my everyday juice. With the heat quickly approaching, this has become one of my go-to’s for the summer swelter.

Brooks is producing some of the best Rieslings in the US and there higher end example, ‘Ara’, is a benchmark for not only Oregon but possibly the US as a whole. Don’t get me wrong, their basic Riesling is bammin’ for the price and leaves nothing on the table in terms of expectations. Ripe apricot, candied orange zest and meringue fill the flamboyant nose, while lime pith, wet stone and chalk dominate the palate. Also, this bottle has a few years of bottle age; hence, it is starting to show some classic petrol notes that inherently comes with aged Riesling...I realize it sounds weird but that’s when Riesling really starts to take it up a notch for me. It is a subtle but noticeable distinction that adds complexity and depth to the overall product. This wine is totally kick ass and will change the way you think about Riesling!!
 
Brooks Riesling, Willamette Valley, Oregon, 2008
$54.99
 
Occasion: Sexy times in the park on Sundays

Food: Cranberry-Apple Stuffed Pork Tenderloin

Music: Wine And Chocolates - Theophilus London - Timez Are Weird These Days

This wine represents one of WA’s absolute favorite trends in the wine industry. A highly reputable winemaker who’s wines typically retail between $50-$500 decides to work on a small side project for the layman aka the WA crew. Enter Laurence Féraud, badass female winemaker of Domaine Pégau notoriety, and her new Southern French project, Plume Bleue. It’s like Mario Batali opening up a hot dog cart...without the would-be line around the block. Needless to say, the juice is delicious and has quickly become a favorite of the WA headquarters aka the ‘Thunderdome’. A 50/50 blend of Grenache and Syrah, Plume Bleue’s coolest attribute is the nose (smell in wine speak). It explodes out of the glass with fresh raspberry, blueberry, cardamom and lavender notes. The medium-bodied palate is bright and expressive with white pepper, curing spices, dried earth and herbs de Provence nuances rounding out the awesomeness. Eat your about-to-explode heart out Batali!
 
Plume Bleue, Grenache/Syrah, Vin de Pays d'Oc, France, 2009
$39.99
 
Occasion: Saturday night pre-game

Food: Cured meats and paté

Music: Fat Bottomed Girls - Queen - Greatest Hits

The Brigaldara, Valpolicella Classico, 2010 was the 7107th most popular wine on Wine-Searcher last year. Good thing we do not curate wines based on popularity or the ridiculous point systems because this Italian juice flat out producers! The Valpolicella Blend is based on three red wine grape varieties(Corvina, Rondinella, and Molinara) grown in the Veneto region in northeast Italy.

Valpolicella is arguably the most famous red wine to come out of the Veneto wine region. This typically mid-bodied, fruit driven wine is equally enjoyable at room temperature or slightly chilled on a warm spring afternoon. The wine is straightforward with dark cherry fruit and tree bark, but pay attention just a little closer and you will pick up hints of violet and earth.
 
Brigaldara, Valpolicella Classico, Veneto, Italy, 2011
$42.99
 
Occasion: Watching the Victoria Secret Fashion Show

Food: Sesame marinated skirt steak

Music: Mexican Bounce - Seye - Mexican Bounce

Merlot catches a lot of flack and deservedly so...five years ago. Think Robert Downey Jr. Luckily, some minor movie appears ripping on Merlot and before you know it, every producer and his brother are grafting their Merlot vines to Pinot Noir. Now, a sea of insipid Pinot exists and those who believed in Merlot are still producing killer juice. This particular project out of Washington state is one of the coolest gigs in the industry. Giving the finger to ratings, the HIP is all about balanced, well-made vino and they deliver. Red plum, fig, bay leaf, fresh coffee beans, violet and marjoram notes jump out of this forward but nuanced example. It’s the style of Merlot that’s helping rebuild its reputation. Think Kiss Kiss Bang Bang.
 
House of Independent Producers, Merlot, Columbia Valley, Washington, 2010
$39.99
 
Occasion: Searching for seashells on the shores of Capri

Food: Cantaloupe wrapped with prosciutto

Music: Warm Heart of Africa - The Very Best - Warm Heart Of Africa

There’s three camps of Pinot Grigio in our minds. First, you have the lighter-bodied, acid-driven style that hail from the mountains of Northern Italy. Then, there are the fleshier, richer styles from sun-driven spots of Italy, Alsace and Oregon. Lastly, you have the mass produced citrus water that line most grocery store shelves. Needless to say, WA loves the contrast of the first two styles but could care less about the last of the aforementioned unless we are making ourselves foot baths, which we indulge in way to often. After sitting at a desk all day, mani/pedis are the only way to treat our already awkwardly soft hands and feet. Moving on, Tenuta Ca’ Bolani is the real deal! It falls into the second category of fleshy and rich with bruised yellow apple, honeydew, citrus oil, marzipan and honeysuckle. Full-bodied in character, this wine has spent time on the lees that also draws out hay and beeswax notes. Ca’ Bolani will make you appreciate what Pinot Grigio can be.
 
Tenuta Ca'Bolani, Pinot Grigio, Friuli, Italy, 2008
$39.99
 
Occasion: A night in watching Scent of a Woman

Food: Grilled scallops over field greens

Music: Another Girl - Wild Belle - Isles

There are various terms in the wine world which really don’t mean anything. ‘Nice’, ‘dry red’ (99.9% of reds are dry), fruity and smooth are just a few examples of nomenclature that don’t carry much weight. If you use these terms, don’t worry so does our media team, but there are more accurate ways of describing wine. It’s much like the novice football fan pointing out how the other guy ‘got in the way’, while the expert would call it a ‘drive block’. Then, this wine appeared. Sitting around the Thunderdome ‘tasting‘ various wines, this Insolia impressed the entirety of the group and the one descriptor that the group kept harping on was ‘smooth’. We are talking baby butt smooth, Dove soap commercial smooth, Marvin Gaye smooth. Yeah, that smooth. In addition to the ultra silky, sexy, smooth palate, this vino is incredibly fragrant with lemon verbena, yellow pear and fresh daffodil aromas. Highly intriguing and very well made, this might be our new night in wine...no partners necessary.
 
Valle dell'Acate, 'Case Ibidini' Insolia, Sicily, Italy, 2011
$39.99
 
Occasion: Showing off your kitchen skills

Food: Chicken Cacciatore with Basil

Music: Genius Of Love - Tom Tom Club - Tom Tom Club

We have said it before and will say it again and again and again...the WA crew can’t get enough rosé in all its form and fashions! The beautiful aspect of rosé is that they range from super light and delicate in the vein of those expressions from Provence to the bigger, beefier styles of Central and Southern Italy. Well, when the weather hasn’t quite broke, those richer, darker styles are perfect for those last, chilly days of winter (remember that Spring doesn’t become official until March 20th).

As you have probably figured out, the iGreco Savù fits such the bill. It’s a dark pink color that borderlines ruby with an orange hue that seems to be the norm in Italian wine though I’ve never fully understand as to why. ‘Hey! It’s Italian! It’s great because that’s how they do it!’ Regardless, this juice is killer! Despite the fact that they sound like an Apple by-product, the iGreco rosé is even sexier than our favorite tech producer. Burnt orange peel, wild peaches and raspberry liqueur jump out of the glass with cardamon, dried geraniums, bay leaf and a flutter of hay. The palate is rich and decadent but has the balanced acid backbone to make this a seamless beauty with a long, minerally finish. Pair with rich, braised tomato dishes or an iPod.
 
iGreco, ‘Savù’ Gaglioppo Rosato, Calabria, Italy, 2011
$45.99
 
Occasion: P Funk Dance Party

Food: Beef Cheek Pierogies

Music: Life ain't easy - Mac Miller - On and on and beyond

The WA crew loves our red wines with a bit of age. That’s really when they show you their true colors and nobody does it better than the French with their Champagne and the Italians with their reds. In both of these instances, minimum aging requirements are completely futile, much like the jaywalking laws of the US, since both are going to hold them for at least twice as long anyways. Finding that balance between primary fruit flavors and aromas and the evolution of the secondary nuances in the form of herbs, flowers and earth is where the truly transcendent lie. You know it when you smell it and due to the cash-strapped nature of a cash-intensive industry, it doesn’t happen often enough and by enough, you are more likely to see one of Paris Hilton’s private parts (not sure of that is saying much these days). Unless you have been collecting for the past 30 years or are an oil magnate, it ain’t going to happen as much as it should. Alas, wines such as the Cata magically appear at Thunderdome aka WA headquarters. It is made from the indigenous varietal Gaglioppo that is thought to be a related to the noble Sangiovese of Chianti. Similarly, red fruit takes the lead with dried red cherries, cranberry and red plum paving the way for secondary notes of Earl Grey tea, resin, bitter root, dried thyme, cedar and crushed rocks. Visually apparent from the classic tawny rim of older reds, the age allows the secondary notes really to come to the forefront. A short stint in oak provides vanilla undertones while rounding out the palate with soft, well integrated tannins. This wine is a classic example of what a well-made beauty can evolve into with a bit of time and proper love.
 
iGreco, ‘Catà’ Gaglioppo, Calabria, Italy, 2006
$46.99
 
Occasion: Long lunch followed by an afternoon nap...poolside of course

Food: Peking Duck

Music: Constant Conversations - Passion Pit - Gossamer

Are you a fan of Macgyver? This guy was able to get out of any sticky situation by building gadgets with whatever he was able to find nearby. We're talking about parachutes from tablecloths, small combustion engines from old computer parts and I'm pretty positive I saw an episode where he built a to-scale replica of the Eiffel Tower with a box of matches and a bar of Irish Spring. Point is-- at the end of every show, it was his adaptability that invariably saved the day. When it comes to the world of wine, Macgyver's identical twin is the 2012 'In Fine' Rosé from Ventoux. This dry rosé made from mostly Grenache is vibrant with aromas of tart cherry, watermelon rind, bubble gum and river stone. On the palate the wine shows an energetic personality with zippy acid and citrus notes of lemon zest and grapefruit pith. In this dry style with elevated acid, this rosé is open for all sorts of pairings and occasions. It's perfect for sitting by the pool at a luau or lounging on the couch with a date and a pizza. Hell, you could even enjoy this wine with Peking duck on the dark side of the moon. We have not tried that last one personally, but hear it was 'far out'. All in all, this is an incredibly versatile wine that will work just about any time, anywhere or with anyone.
 
Trouiller, 'In Fine' Rosé, Ventoux, France 2012
$39.99
 
Occasion: Celebrating a long ride with your mates

Food: Jamaican Jerk Chicken

Music: That Girl - Justin Timberlake - The 20/20 Experience

The word ‘consejo’ literally translates to ‘advice’ in English. In the case of the Consejo de la Alta from Rioja, you should do just that because this wine makes Yoda stop and listen. This wine will seduce you with notes of deep, dark sun-dried black cherry and plum. On the palate, there is a richness that serves as an excellent base for secondary notes of anise, black olive, chestnut and brown sugar. This isn’t a massive red, but it maintains a density to it and with 8 years of age, it has had plenty of time to develop layers of complexity. Think of this wine as the coed who is sitting at the end of the bar, nursing their drink all by their lonesome. Should you go over and say hello? Absolutely you should go over and say hello. You're so money and you don’t even know it. Pop a bottle, pour a glass and let the force be with you.
 
Consejo de la Alta, Rioja, Spain, 2005
$39.99
 
Occasion: Late night poker with the girls

Food: All American Burger. Bacon, cheese and onion rings.

Music: Borderline - Classixx - Holding On

What is Marselan you might ask? Well, take two of the world’s most famous red varietals, light some candles, put on some Barry White and let your imagination do the rest. Nine months later, Cabernet Sauvignon and Grenache are the proud parents of sweet, baby Marselan. At least that’s the story we like to tell here at the Thunderdome. The reality is that a French ampelographer, essentially a grapevine scientist, crossed the two varietals in hope of producing a higher yielding varietal back in the 60’s. Unfortunately, the small-berried Marselan produced no such results and was shelved for nearly 40 years. Fortunately, as the trend for high-quality wine production evolved with the requisite lower yields, Marselan went from a lab runt to a man about southern French towns. Stylistically, it shows the flavor profile associated with Grenache such as ripe red cherries, red plum, herbs de Provence and black tea. The Cabernet shows its lineage in the structure of the wine (think Bordeaux not California Cab). Medium plus-bodied with well-integrated tannins, the wine is balanced and texturally refined, harmonizing the forwardness of the fruit and the noted acidity. Cabernet and Grenache, here’s looking at you!
 
Val de Salis, Marselan, Languedoc, France, 2010
$39.99
 
Occasion: Picnic at Jardin des Tuileries

Food: Fresh baguette, soft goat cheese and prosciutto

Music: Magic and Fire - Brave Baby - Forty Bells

Chile is the red-headed stepchild of South America. And if by redheaded stepchild, you mean stable government, prosperous economy, strong female president and a well developed wine industry, then yes, it is very much the redheaded stepchild of South America. Isolated between the Andes and the Pacific, it’s the perfect setting for quality juice. High-altitude vineyards coupled with the maritime influence of the chilly, Pacific ocean provide a climate reminiscent of northern California (north of Napa) with wines that are at a fraction of the price. Perfect conditions (in the sense that they aren’t perfect) and numerous microclimates and soil variation equate to what the great wine producing countries of Europe have cultivated for thousands of years. One of the most exciting, emerging regions in Chile is Coquimbo, a more northerly, sparser region that is proving to be a proper breeding ground for delicious juice out of both the Elqui (for reds) and Limarí (for whites) Valleys. Los Molles is an excellent version of the Sauvignon hailing from the appellation. High-toned and linear, it displays classic SB of grapefruit, fresh aparagus, cut grass and crushed rocks with more nuanced descriptors of honeydew melon, lime zest and white pepper. It’s a prettier, more elegant version of what is being produced in Marlborough, which is a good thing. If NZ SB is Lindsay Lohan, then Limarí SB is Natalie Portman.
 
Los Molles, Sauvignon Blanc Riserva, Limarí Valley, Chile, 2010
$39.99
 
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